As soon as you want to bring your horse to a lesson, a veterinarian, or a competition yourself, the question of buying or renting a trailer comes up. The answer depends on how often you drive, what your car can tow, and how much you want to invest upfront. Below is the trade-off between buying and renting, the types available, and the points to check when buying.
Buying or renting: how often will you drive?
The choice mostly comes down to frequency. A trailer sits idle most of the time, so the question is whether that idle ownership is worth it.
- A few times a year — for a vet check, an occasional competition, or a move. Renting is then almost always cheaper, and you don't need to store or maintain anything.
- Monthly or more often — regular lessons at another location, an ongoing competition season, or a horse that needs to visit the clinic regularly. Then owning a trailer starts to pay off, both financially and practically.
- Not sure yet — if you don't yet know how often you'll be driving, rent for a season first. You'll immediately learn which type and size suit you and your horse before committing thousands of euros.
Beyond cost, convenience matters too: your own trailer is ready whenever you need it, even last minute and outside a rental company's opening hours. The trade-off is that you have to store, inspect, insure, and maintain it, even in the months it doesn't get used.
What it costs: renting versus buying
The figures below are realistic ranges for the Netherlands in 2026 and vary widely by region, brand, and specification. Treat them as a guideline, not a fixed price.
| Type | Indication | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Rental per day | €40–€90 | Often a deposit plus mileage or day tiers; weekend rate sometimes higher |
| Rental per half-day | €25–€50 | At some riding schools and rental outlets |
| Used single-axle trailer (1 horse) | €1,000–€3,500 | Strongly dependent on age, brand, and the condition of the floor |
| Used two-horse trailer | €2,500–€7,000 | Popular brands hold their value well |
| New two-horse trailer | €5,000–€12,000+ | Polyester or aluminum builds at the top end |
With your own trailer, annual costs come on top of the purchase price: maintenance, tires, a mandatory inspection where applicable (APK — the Dutch periodic roadworthiness test, required for heavier trailers), storage, and insurance. Budget roughly a few hundred euros a year for a lightly used trailer, more if an inspection and paid storage are added. Do you drive fewer than 10 to 15 times a year? Then renting is cheaper. Above that, buying can pay off — but only if you actually use it.
Which type suits you?
For most recreational and competition riders, it comes down to a choice between a single-horse trailer and a two-horse version, in polyester or aluminum.
- Single-axle or one-horse trailer — lighter, cheaper, and easier to tow and maneuver. Enough if you almost always bring one horse.
- Two-horse trailer — heavier and more expensive, but more versatile: it can take a second horse or a more spaciously loaded single horse. Most competition riders choose this.
- Polyester (fiberglass) — insulates better against heat and noise and needs little maintenance, but is usually heavier.
- Aluminum — lighter and strong, often somewhat pricier, and can feel warmer inside in the sun.
When it comes to size, think about your horse: a large or wide horse needs a trailer with sufficient height, length, and width. An animal that stands cramped loads worse and travels more restlessly. Better to measure your horse one time too many than to buy a trailer that's too small.
Does it match your car and your driver's license?
A trailer you're not allowed or able to tow isn't a bargain. Two things need to check out before you buy or rent anything:
- Your car's towing capacity. The registration documents (kentekenpapieren) state how much your car may tow with brakes. The loaded trailer may not exceed that.
- Your driver's license. A category B license isn't always enough. It depends on the combined weight of the car and trailer — not the weight of your horse. Check this before you buy anything.
This is exactly where many first-time buyers go wrong: they buy a spacious two-horse trailer that their car isn't allowed to tow, or for which their license isn't sufficient. So check the math first. The full explanation and the current limits are covered in the separate guide "Driver's license and weight: are you allowed to tow this trailer?" and at the RDW (the Netherlands Vehicle Authority).
Inspecting a used trailer: the checklist
Most horse trailers change hands secondhand. A trailer can look fine from the outside while the structure has deteriorated underneath. When viewing one, check at least these points, preferably with someone who knows the subject:
- The floor. This is the most important and most dangerous part. Wooden floors can rot away from underneath without it showing on top. Check the underside, prod or push on suspicious spots, and watch for discoloration, soft spots, or wet rubber mats. A sagging floor is life-threatening.
- The chassis and underbody. Look under the trailer for rust, especially at weld seams and mounting points. Surface rust is normal; rusted-through or crumbling parts are a red flag.
- Tires and wheels. Check the date code and for cracks in the rubber. Trailer tires age from standing still and sun exposure, even with enough tread left. Is a spare wheel included?
- Brakes and the surge coupling. Most trailers have a surge brake (a brake that engages automatically when the car slows down). Test whether the handbrake holds and whether the surge coupling moves smoothly and doesn't stick or rattle.
- Lights and connector. Connect the trailer to a car and check the brake light, indicators, and lights. Faulty wiring is usually cheap to fix, but still worth knowing about.
- Hinges, latches, and the ramp. You should be able to open and close the loading ramp safely. Check the cables, hinges, and the breast bar and cross bolt on the inside.
- Paperwork. Ask for the registration certificate (kenteken, mandatory for heavier trailers), any inspection history, and whether the trailer has ever been damaged.
If you're unsure about the condition, bring an experienced dealer or an inspection company along. Their fee is negligible next to a trailer with a rotten floor or a corroded chassis.
Insurance and registration
A trailer above a certain weight needs its own registration (kenteken) and may need to be insured separately. Whether your trailer falls under your car insurance or needs its own policy depends on the weight and your insurer — ask this explicitly, since it's separate from your driver's license. Damage to or caused by the trailer, or a stolen trailer, is not automatically covered. See also Which insurance you need and check the exact terms with your own insurer.
In short
If you drive a few times a year, rent; from roughly ten to fifteen trips onward, owning a trailer starts to pay off. Still unsure? Rent for a season first to get to know the type and size you need. Choose a trailer that's spacious enough for your horse and that your car is allowed to tow and your license permits — check those limits before you buy. Buying secondhand? Have the floor, chassis, and brakes thoroughly inspected; that's where the risks lie. And arrange the registration and insurance separately, since neither follows automatically from your car or your license.
See also: Driver's license and weight: are you allowed to tow this trailer? · Horse trailer and truck insurance · Which insurance you need · What does horse riding cost?